
Biomimetic clothes
Last updated: June 9, 2008.
Nature is nothing if not surprising. You could spend your whole life
learning the wonders of wildflowers, migratory birds, or creatures of
the seashore and still discover only a fraction of the things the
living world has to offer. Though nature is fascinating in its own
right, it can also teach us many ways of improving our own
lives; indeed, it's been a constant source of inspiration for inventors.
Now fashion designers and clothing manufacturers are also turning to
nature for help developing "biomimetic clothes"—ones that perform more
effectively by mimicking the wonders of the biological world.
Photo: Now that's what I call a fur coat!
Can animals like these musk oxen inspire us to design better human clothes?
That's what biomimetics is all about. Photo of musk oxen on Nunivak Island by courtesy of US Fish & Wildlife Service.
Lessons from nature
When a German engineer called Otto Lilienthal (1848–1896) strapped
wings to his arms and jumped off a hill in an attempt to fly, many
people thought he was crazy. They had a point: he did, eventually, kill
himself trying to fly like the birds. But his pioneering glider
experiments inspired the Wright brothers to develop their
engine-powered airplanes in the early 20th century and played a hugely
important part in the history of human flight.

Photo: People learned to fly by copying birds.
The Wright brothers making their historic powered flight at Kitty Hawk, North Carolina in December 1903.
Photo courtesy of Great Pictures in NASA.
Lilienthal the "birdman" is only one example of how nature has
inspired inventors. How about the story of British engineer Marc
Isambard Brunel (1769–1845), father of famous engineer Isambard Kingdom
Brunel (1806–1859), who invented a new way of digging tunnels
underwater after watching a worm burrowing through the wooden planks of
a ship? Or what about Swiss engineer George de Mestral (1907–1990), who
invented the amazingly useful fastening material called Velcro after
seeing how stray burrs from the burdock plant stuck like glue to the
fur of his dog.
Before synthetic textiles such as nylon and polyester were developed
in the 20th century, people only ever wore clothes made from natural
materials like leather, wool, silk, and cotton. Now synthetic fibers
have proved useful in all kinds of ways. Nylon, for example, is strong,
hard-wearing, easy to clean, and quick-drying—so it's a popular choice
for outdoor clothing. But wearing simple, ordinary nylon is a bit like
wrapping yourself up in a plastic bag.
Very quickly, you start to sweat—and on a hot, rainy summer's day you
can easily become wetter through perspiration than you would have done
just by letting the rain in. Natural materials like leather are much
"smarter" than this: they let perspiration flow out but stop rain
leaking in at the same time. What makes us think our synthetic
materials are automatically better than the ones we can find in the
world around us? Honed by millions of years of evolution, nature's
materials have many lessons they can teach us.
Soggy sheep
If you've ever gone walking on a mountain in winter, you've probably
marvelled at how sheep can survive in damp, cold, and utterly horrible
conditions. The explanation is simple: wool is an amazingly good
insulating material. The best wool of all comes from a breed of sheep
called the merino; that's why sportswear companies use in their
high-performance base layers (insulating underwear for active
sports like climbing, cycling, and surfing).

Several brilliant features make merino the perfect thermal underwear
for sheep. First, it has much finer fibers than ordinary wool.
Finer fibers means more fibers and more air
trapped between them. It's trapped air that gives you warmth in
clothing (that's why wearing several thin layers is generally warmer
than wearing one thick pullover). You can also fluff up the surface of
merino so the fibers occupy more space and trap even more air—giving
more thickness and insulation with no added weight. All dry wool (and
merino wool in particular) has an amazing ability to mop up steamy
moisture from inside it and merino can absorb over a third of its own
dry weight in water. As the moisture soaks into the fiber, it turns
from a gas to a liquid, giving off what's called latent heat of fusion.
If you wear polyester clothes and you sweat, the sweat will evaporate
from your skin and cool your body down, which probably isn't too
helpful if you're climbing a mountain in midwinter. But if you're
wearing a merino base layer and you start to sweat, the merino will
give off heat as it gets wetter and help to keep you warm!
Photo: Sheep are built to stay warm, even when they're wet.
Clothes that clean themselves

Photo: The leaves of the lotus plant (Nelumbo nucifera) are self-cleaning.
Photo taken in the Wichita Mountains National Wildlife Refuge by Elise Smith,
courtesy of US Fish & Wildlife Service.
One of the most irritating things about clothes is that you have to
keep washing them to keep them clean. Animals wash, clean, and preen
themselves too—but you don't often see plants doing the same thing.
That's because some plants, like the lotus, have a clever
built-in mechanism that naturally keeps them clean. The leaves are
coated with nanoscopically tiny bumps and the bumps are, themselves,
covered with a thin layer of wax. Dirt particles balance precariously
on the waxy bumps but never get a really good grip on the main surface
of the leaves below. When it rains, water droplets roll down the
leaves, pulling the dirt particles free and washing them clean. The
nano-bumps work a bit like a natural detergent, holding dirt clear of
the leaves so water can easily wash it away. Surprise, surprise,
clothing manufacturers are now coating garments like skate pants with
nanofibers so they work in a similar way. The idea is that dirt is held
slightly apart from the main fabric so stains cannot penetrate deeply;
clothes coated with nanofibers can be washed clean much more easily.
Waterproof and breathable
Take a look at our article on GORE-TEX®
to find out how this revolutionary synthetic material lets out
perspiration but stops water getting in at the same time.
Swim like a shark
Skin is an amazing material: it's waterproof, it's breathable, it
helps to regulate our body temperature, and it can repair itself
automatically. One thing it was never designed for was swimming. Water
doesn't flow well past human skin—not least because our skin starts to
wrinkle (by absorbing water) after we've been swimming or bathing for
some time. If you have a particularly hairy body, every single one of
your hairs will drag and slow you down even more.

Photo: Unlike humans, sharks are designed to slip easily through water.
Photo of a Black-tipped shark swimming through a coral reef in Guam
by Steven Maksinchuk courtesy of US Navy.
A few years ago, the Speedo company found a solution to this problem
by designing a swimsuit to mimic a shark's skin. Known as FASTSKIN, the
tight-fitting suit is covered with tiny v-shaped channels, just like
the ridges (technically known as placoid scales or dermal
dentricles) on a shark's body. The idea is that water whizzes along
these channels, reducing drag and turbulence, so you can swim faster.
The suit also fits very tightly and, by compressing the swimmer's
muscles, helps to reduce fatigue. According to Speedo, swimsuits like
this can boost a swimmer's speed by up to 3 percent. It's hardly
surprising that many Olympic swimmers now wear suits like these.
Open sesame?
You probably know an easy way to tell the weather. Get a pine cone
and watch whether the spines open and close. If it's going to rain, the
spines close up to protect the seeds inside; if it's going to stay dry,
the spines open up to improve the chances of the seeds escaping.
Researchers at England's Bath University and the London College of
Fashion are trying to design biomimetic clothes that could work the
same way. The fabric could be made with an outer layer of tiny spikes,
only 1/200th of a millimeter wide. When it's hot, the spikes would open
up to let out the heat, cooling you down. When it's cold, the spikes
would flatten back down to trap air and provide more effective
insulation.
~
Tomorrow, we could all be wearing clothes based on shark skin,
merino wool, pine cones, or a thousand other naturally good ideas.
Getting back to nature has never been more worthwhile—or so much fun!
Further reading
- Australian merino: proof: Lots of information about the amazing properties of merino wool, including full scientific explanations of its warmth, breathability, and other benefits.
- Centre for Biomimetics and Natural Technologies: Research and information from Bath University's biomimetic department. Quite a lot of background info here.
- Biomimetics: The Economist, June 9, 2005. (You have to pay a subscription for this one, unfortunately, or hunt down the printed version in your library.)
- Biomimetics: Borrowing from Biology: A nice introduction to the whole topic of biomimetics from Becky Poole. Includes lots of stuff about gecko adhesives and self-cleaning lotus flowers.
- Finisterre: This friendly and ethical little British outdoor-wear company produces a small but perfectly formed range of clothes, many of them inspired by biomimetic design.